Valentino's Pierpaolo Piccioli knows a cash cow when he sees one and so that's why Valentino's now-signature Rockstuds appear on stunningly tailored overcoats and camo makes a cameo in nearly every collection, irrespective of the season. This season, there's the collaborative collection of puffers with Moncler that's sure to drive foot traffic to try on these shiny puffers, especially the ones that are Valentino-red. Though commercial success is important for a maison's survival, so is relevance. There was nary a suit to be seen on the runway and that's purposeful since Piccioli knows that traditional tailored clothing is on the way out. His solution this season? Tailored sweats. Many, though not all, of the pants seen on the runway are oh-so-comfortable sweatpants that one can wear to work because they're neat and tailored but then to the gym or a night out. Lastly, it wouldn't be a fall/winter collection without talking about the coats, which were stunning and offered something for everyone from rockstars (those Rockstuds, natch) to businessmen (austere Chesterfields) to arty men with cash to spare, did you see the intricately embroidered coats, some in a tiger print or in floral? Piccioli has blossomed since taking over the creative position at Valentino as a one-man show.



RUNWAY: Valentino FW18

Y/Project's Glenn Martens recently won the ANDAM Prize, the same prize that put designers like Martin Margiela and Anthony Vaccarello of Saint Laurent on the map. In his first men's collection since the win (it was in July 2017, just after the label's SS18 show), Martens jumps out of the box with a collaboration with UGG, featuring everything from comfy and furry slippers to thigh high boots, which already has the fashion set's tongues wagging. As for the clothing, Martens continues to play with proportion and fit, highlighting paneled denim, double sleeved sweaters and oversized accessories.



RUNWAY: Y/Project FW18

Before Haider Ackermann ever created a men's collection, a special one for Pitti Uomo some years ago, he had already established an aesthetic. It continues and ties together his menswear and womenswear. That aesthetic, if you're new to Haider, is languid and sensual clothing. Fall/Winter collections tend to be strong for the Colombian-born designer since the rich fabrics like velvet pair so well with wintry clothes. For FW18, there were sublime coats, many with intricate and dazzlingly linings while loungey trousers cleanly cuffed added a a military feel while a strong Japanese and East Asian influence came through in the cherry blossom prints seen throughout and some of the tailored jackets.



RUNWAY: Haider Ackermann FW18

Politics and fashion are not mutually exclusive. Fashion is, after all, a form of art and art is often a reaction to the current state of society. With this in mind, GmbH's FW18 collection was a reaction, in part, to the tumultuous political climate from nationalism to nuclear war to human rights issues. GmbH named its FW18 collection "The Modern Dark Ages" and this trope can be seen in chainmail tops and embroidered leather, like one would see in a period piece on soldiers, while the label's signature PVC pants added a modern and lurid thread that pieced together the past and the present, as well as the brand's identity and the outside world.



RUNWAY: GmbH FW18

The English countryside and hunting are the starting point of Palomo Spain's FW18 collection. It's combined with Spanish cultures to create a collection that's both warm - think neutrals and tweeds - and lively, a joie-de-vivre that the label is known for. The label continues its play on proportion and gender roles in this collection, seen in the puffy skirts and dramatic capes.



RUNWAY: Palomo Spain FW18

Virgil Abloh's latest outing for Off-White proffered utility for the everyday, whether it's going to get one's dry cleaning or just to run an errand at the corner store. However, to think that the collection was no-frills and plain would be a mistake, there were some stand out pieces here from an abstract print coat to an oversized striped knit to the striking footwear.



RUNWAY: Off-White FW18

It was a triple F affair at Fendi's Fall/Winter 2018 collection: Fendi Frequent Fliers. Traveling was the theme, obvious by the airport baggage claim set. Silvia Fendi has a penchant for creating incredible collections of covetable pieces that sends the internet abuzz. For FW18, there were logo-centric designs seen on everything from knits to tees to luggage, of course. But since this collection is all about traveling, most pieces were reversible so if one did not want to advertise how double-F fabulous they are, they could be more demurely dressed without packing twice as many clothes. As for the prices of these double-duty clothes? Their ETA is not yet known but sure to be high.



RUNWAY: Fendi FW18

How much of Gosha Rubchinskiy's Fall/Winter 2018 collection his and how much is a co-labeled capsule collection? It's really anyone's guess since there are so many collaborations in this FW18 collection. There's Burberry, Dr. Martens, Adidas, and Levi's. Though on paper it seems a bit like a cacophony of labels, the end result was very authentic. This means that the boys, and the models were boys, who wore these looks looked like every other boy in the world, one who isn't brand loyal but wears Dr. Martens with his Levi's and a shirt from a fast fashion retailer or whose parent bought them one nice coat, Burberry, natch, and they pair it with something more street and budget friendly. In this way, the collection worked because it speaks to his target audience because the models not only look like boys who buy these items - though there could be more diversity in the cast considering how global Rubchinskiy's collections are - but they also dress like them as well.



RUNWAY: Gosha Rubchinskiy FW18

Billionaire staged its extravagant collection at a velvet-y lounge that exuded excess and money, quite like this collection. There were exotics skins of all kinds from crocodile to snakeskin to fur, because what says luxury more than the painful death of animals?



RUNWAY: Billionaire FW18